<^. 






■' " JL" " o 



^4 o^ . _ .. • .0 v, ■ , J ' ^-l- Oft - 'i , , , 



-b 









^c 



■■v- 






,.;^<r^:, V„.' =■;»-. %,/ .•^•. V„.' •■:•«»* 






■; ■ > 









'o . 1 

















O^-.-/ %''^\^^ °^^--"^^' ,. "-^.''^'s/ % 




o 



■*b^ 










A 



•o, -^'^'^ 



'°4^°', 






o > 






^■ 



^ 






% 







4 o 







'^--0^ 



°o 



.^^ 









<'^ 



o > 



'. ■^ 






. 5 • • 



o > 






- O A^ 



. > • • ' V- 






<> 



.^ 



.<^^ 













ri^ . 5 • • , 






o > 



■^" 






V 



\^ 



o 






^^ A^ 






'X- 



•^ o. : - ■ .0 



a\ 



A 









1 _■/-■*, '''-- 


















0' 



-7 



<i>. - » « ' a"^ 



^o 












' , , s * > ^ 



.0^^ 



>i " 



-^ 



>•' <G^ 






T ^ 






'O . , * 



'^' ^^f -I 



^^^^)^^ 



.^^' 



^...:5 , 


















<>• 






.* 



iV 



?-t^ 



















'^ 









'^ 



. ■ ^^ -^^ 






% A^ '> 






'%.^^ /" ^' 



'7- 



.-^^ 






S O 






^ V . - v^ . ^ V 






'---.•^^ 



V' 



■.* 






.*^ 



A 



A'^ 



v-^. 



.}>■ V, 'r ?'.,'?,'„ -* 



v'"-\f< 



':«. 

5;'' 






,'\ 



.*^ 



o V 



A 



A" "^ ■• " " 

Cl s • * ;■ Ji- 



.^' 






/•^. ^ 






.c;^^ 



2" 
o 



^^o -. 
% 












a" "^'U 



■;.° ^^c,'' 









o V 






.^C• 



. 
<j^. 



.V 



.^0 



>0 






^v. t. 






V 



.^" 






v-s?^-.^' 



'^ 



'^^..A^^ 



v^^\ 








i 



1 



m 



i 



m 

II 



i^me. Vdtd-Simond^' 



Drapery Susiem Gtiari 



i>^l 



t 



F=r=?icz:E:, ^3-oo- 



/ 



Z,^'*^ 



U 



■w= 



MILWAUKEE SCHOOL OF DRESS CUTTING, 

No. 467 Milwaukee Street, 

MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



COPYRIGHT, 1889 
By Mme. Anna Veitch-Simonds. 





m 
m 

mi 



m 

i 

m 



m 



m 



•Sim « UAan. •■«•«••• * runTau, 'hlxuku. 




y 



^ 



<■ 



\' 



,<b 



^? 




Yours truly. 
MME. VEITCH-SIMONDS. 



^ ^ ' 









M}tE. VEITCH-SIMOS'DS' 



INTRODOGTORY. 



ife^""" 



•j^^ HE cutting and making of garments for gentlemen liave for many years been regu- 




y/r^^^' I'^'^'^'^l ^y exact systems and mathematical laws, the smallest detail being cut by 
measure, wiiile the same work for ladies has almost entirely been done by guess' 
work, a system of cutting only being used for the waist or body part, based 
on the idea that there was no need of actual measurement for tiie draping or skirt 
part; hence the reason that two dressmakers, or those who call themselves dressmakers, could both 
copy from one fashion plate with entirely different results, possibly neither effect being like the 
artistic design they had used for a copy. The artist, in designing, studies the effect, and every 
part is measured correctly, as each part bears relation with the other; and when perfectly con- 
structed makes one harmonious whole, wliile, by ehanging one dimension, the whole is tlirown 
out of balance, hence, poor results must follow. 

Why Dressmaking So Often Proves a Failure. 

This system of cutting is as much superior to the patterns as the work of the artistic tailor 
is to the ready-made clothing. 

A dress well made means something more than tine sewing and elaborate trimming. 

No dress, however well the waist is cut and fitted, can give perfect satisfaction unless the 
work is based on a correct system of designing; herein lies the secret of success. 

In introducing this system of draping and designing, the author claims that it meets every 
demand for simplicity, accuracy, economy of time, material and ease of comprehension, is 
adapted to every part of dressmaking and is unaffected by any change of fashion ; it is therefore 
a means of saving time, labor and money — three points which entitle it to the careful considera- 
tion of all who would be successful in business, as well as evei-y one who would be her own 
dressmaker. 

Those whom I have taught this system of cutting are surprised to tind in it such a com- 
bination of accuracy with simplicity; the idea being very prevalent that draping and designing 
could not be taught, tiiat it must be a gift of nature, that you must be a natural born artist 
to be a successful draper ; while the freehand artist has no need of mathematical laws to secure his 



DllAPERY SYSTKM CHART. 



portrait outlines, but 95 out of every 100 must be regulated in their work by exact system 
and mathematical laws and rules. 

The art of dress cutting and fitting, therefore, does not consist merely in regulating the 
tightness or looseness of a waist, but in so cutting and constructing the different parts that, 
when made into a garment, it shall l)e in proportion to the shape of tiie person who is to wear it. 
Whether draperies aroused in its construction, or otherwise, it must fit and hang without wrinkles 
or distortion of the various parts. That this requires talent of no mean order, any obsei'ving 
person must be ready to acknowledge. Any system of principles that will assist in accomplishing 
such an art will be hailed with delight by those who desire to learn, as well as the person who 
is employed as instructor. 

No more sitting six months as apprentice to dressmakers, wl»o have no time to see 
whether you learn or not. What is worth learning at all is worth learning well, and, remember, 
the laborer is worthy of his hire. 

(_to to learn dressmaking where they make a business of teaching, and are experienced 
teachers. I have known ladies to undertake the teaching of dressmaking, who did not know how 
themselves — could simply cut a waist drafted by a system of cutting. How many ladies have a 
dress cut and fitted well, and then have it spoiled in making. 

Until ladies insist on employing none but proficient help to make their dres.ses, just so long 
will you see poorly hung, ill-draped, irregular, disproportioned dresses. 

No matter how perfect a system of cutting you employ to cut your waist with, unless there 
is system of cutting the whole dre.ss, something will be lacking, some part is out of proportion ; 
hence the remark, '■ It lacks style and finish." To the' professional modiste it needs but a glance 
to see that this method meets a long-felt want among the millions; when a lady is compelled 
to support herself almost the first occupation open to her is sewing. Then how necessary 
to have some method of construction to enable her to plan and cut each part of her work in a 
manner equal to an old dressmaker, who has had to learn by long years of labor and experience 
what the other one can learn from this book of designing. 

To Baste a Waist. 

No matter what system of cutting is used, the worker can s{)oil the fit of a waist by poor 
basting. A waist well cut and basted I consider half made. In cutting, first cut your lining, 
always using good, firm silesia or silk waist lining. Fold your silesia on the cross of the cloth. 
Tiie material cannot stretch, being used crossways. Be careful to pin your silesia evenly that the 
grain of the cloth runs even one with the other, having your silesia double so as to cut both fronts 
at once. Pin your waist line even with the grain of the goods, then pin your pattern closely each 
way up and down from the waist line on the silesia, tracing through the dart lines one trace, on 
the under seams, shoulders and front. Trace with the double adjustable tracing wheel, two lines, 
one for cutting and the other for basting in. Be careful in cutting not to stretch your lining. 

To cut the side body pin the pattern with the waist line even on the grain of the silesia, 
pin your pattern close each way, trace through the waist line with one wheel each side of the pat- 
tern, allowing seams, using the double wheel, one for cutting and one for basting. The same 
with the side form in the back. 



MME. VEITCH-SIMONDS' 



Be particular tliat you get the waist line even on the grain of your selisia, and also that 
the dress goods, when you lay it on to cut, as you can mar or make the beauty of your waist by 
the way the grain of the cloth runs in this piece, it being a curved piece. 

Beginners are too apt to get their silesia on crooked cutting the back pieces. 

In Bastin.?. 

To baste the front silesia on the goods, i)in it well at the waist line, holding the selisia full 
over the top of the dart at the front curve, which obviates the wrinkles which otherwise would 
be below the bust. Also, on all curves from the waist line over the hips holding the lining full. 
Baste once in the trace line two short stitches and then a long one ; begin at the top and baste 
down in all seams. 

To Join the Waist. 

Pin your waist lines together at the darts, beginning at the top of a dart and baste down 
through the trace line. On the under arm and side body and back pin the waist line, beginning 
at the waist line and baste up to the top ; begin at the waist line and baste down to the bottom. 

Beginners should always be very careful to get their waist line even with the other, as I 
know of DO cause that will make a waist fit crooked quicker than uneven waist lines. In basting 
the shoulders, hold the back towards you, beginning at the neck, and baste down to tlie arm's eye. 

To Fit a Waist. 

Insist always that the lady wear the same corset and clothing that you measure her in. 
Put your waist on right side out, holding each side hem to meet the other, pinning through 
and through. In this manner you get the exact curve of the lady's bust. 

The trace lines should always meet. When they do not meet, no matter what system of 
cutting is used, you have not taken your measures rightly. If it is not large enough, if the trace 
line does not come together, you must let it out on the first under arm seam 

Never let it out in front, as that throws your darts too far back, giving a flat eff'ect, instead 
of the pretty curve that otherwise would have been there. 

To Get tiie Length of the Waist. 

Even though it may be the prevailing mode to wear a very short basque, the customer 
maj' object to having the extreme of fashion. Therefore I would advise turning u}i the bottom of 
the basque while on the lady, on the right side pinning, it in .shape becoming to the lady's form. 
In this manner you will get the exact length of the bottom of the basque in proportion with the 
lady's size. 

To Stitch a Waist. 

Begin at the top of each seam, stitching down. If stitched directly on the basting, the 
waist will be one-half an inch tighter than wdien fit. If stitched just outside of the basting the 
waist will be the same size as. when fit. If stitched on the inside of the baisting the waist will be 
one inch smaller than when fit, so that the fitter can make slight alterations by stitching inside of 



DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 



the basting or outside or directly on tlie basting without making any alterations in her basting. 
When the waist is stitched, remove your bastings. Press open your seams by beginning at the 
bottom of the waist and press up, lifting the iron each time you press and setting it down again. 
Eemember you are not ironing, but pressing, and the iron must not be shoved along ou the seams, 
as it will stretch them out of shape. I have seen perfectly cut garments ruined by pressing the 
seams with the iron being slid along on the seams, instead of being raised each time it moved. 

Never press down, as you are apt to stretch your seams. 

When pressed, lay your waist, double pinning each seam for a seam at the waist line, pin- 
ning through to the other waist line. Then turn your front lap basting back where your pins 
remain. If you turn the front lap directly where the pins went in, it will tighten the waist. It 
should be turned one-eighth of an inch out from the pinning or tracing line. Turn both the 
front laps while the waist is pinned double. In this way you will get both lines perfectly even. 
Then trim your waist at the bottom, where you have marked it on the lady. If any trimming is 
needed in the arm's eye or neck, now is the time to do it. Then remove your j)ins, and your 
waist is ready for the seam finishing. 

This is a matter of taste. If bound, be particular that the binding is not held too tight. 
The same fault may be with overcasting. Do not pull your thread too tight, as it might wrinkle 
your seam. Clip your seams at the waist line once again, one-half way to the top. Clip the 
darts within one and one-half inches of the top. 

Turn the bottom of the waist up, basting close, so the outside goods is held tighter than the 
lining. 

Then to put in the bones. If casing is used, sew it on full, as when the bones are put in 
it will curve to the form of the waist. Put bones in every seam, beginning on the under arm and 
side bodies two and one-half inches from the top of the under arm seams running down to the 
bottom of the waist, beginning in the darts one and one-half inches from the top of the dart run- 
ning to the bottom of the waist. In the middle back seam beginning even with the side bones 
at the top running down. If the basque is slashed in the back only to the waist line. If closed 
run it to the bottom of the basque. 

Facing. 

To cut the facing, pin it on the bottom of the waist and cut to fit the waist. Turn 
each edge of your facing and press, then hem on to the waist. Be very careful not to draw 
it too tight over the hips where the curve in the waist begins. 

To Insert the Belt. 

Fasten on the middle back seam and side form seams. The belt should be just the width 
of the waist, closed with hooks and eyes. 

In using hooks and eyes to close the waist with, they should be sewed alternate hook and 
eye. If the hooks and eyes are sewed on a straight line at the back of the hook and eye, they 
will always hook even, as the opposite hook gives in lengtii what the eye lacks. 

Measure and mark the distance between each hook and eye, as it is very important that 
each one should be even with the other. 



MME. VEITCH-SIMONDS' 



To Cut a Standin^t;' Collar. 

Measure the neck of your waist, using tiie curve tliat is used in making the dart on the 
front of the collar. The top of the collar should he straight. Cutting lining for collars should 
always be on the bias. Join the stiffening with tiie material, press an<l turn the top edge of the 
collar, press again and hem tlie lining on. 

To Sew the Collar on the Neck. 

Hold the neck towards you, beginning at the middle back seam; baste towards the front. 
I would advise always fitting a collar, as it is a very imjiortant part of the waist. 

To Cut Skirts. 

In cutting a sham for all ordinary sized people, the front gore at the bottom half must 
measure ten inches, at the top eight inches. The side gore at the bottom must measure fourteen 
inches, at the top eleven inciies. Tliisrule, twenty-four inches at the bottom, front and side gores, 
is applicable for ladies measuring from 20 to 26 waist measure : the size of the skirt being gov- 
erned by the size of the hips and waist. 

For a lady measuring from 28 to 40 waist measure the front and side gores must be enlarged, 
t^rom 26 to 28 measurement at the bottom, adding on each the front gore and side gore in pro- 
portion. Tlie back of the skirt should be cut straight, allowing 20 inches, one-half of the back, 
making in whole a fort\--four incli skirt at the bottom. For all ordinary purposes — medium-sized 
ladies — this measure will be right. For very large ladies where the front and side gores are 
enlarged, add on to the back in proportion with the front as many inches on the width of the 
back. 

In hanging your skirt measure each part. Measure front length from the middle of the front 
gore down. To get the side length measure where the under arm seam of the waist comes ; begin- 
ning at the waist line, measure down over the hips. To get the back lengtli, measure from tiie 
middle of the back down. Sometimes it is necessary to measure both sides, as frequently a lady 
has one hip higher than the other, which would require different lengths on each side. 

To baste sham always begin at the bottom and baste up the length, any unevenness 
coming at the top. Then turn your .skirt with the lady's measure to the middle of the front gore 
and measure the side gore where it joins on the back w'idth and the middle of the back, allowing 
darts across the front and side gore to fit the lady's hips. 

Then when sewing on the band, hold the skirt towards you. The ordinary width of the 
back, wlien gathered, would be from 6 to 8 inches. On a very large lady it might be 
extended to 10. 

Out the facing for your sham 8 inches in depth, join together and baste on the lining, 
first having shammed up your lining with a piece of the material of your dress goods the depth 
required. I would advise always using velveteen for liinding on the bottom in preference to 
braid, as it protects the shoes and wears much better than any skirt binding ; however, where the 
material cannot be matched with velveteen, cover your facing with alpaca, light weight. 

When using steels, great care should be taken that they be evenly adjusted. First hang 



DEAF FRY SYSTEM CHART. 



the skirt, turning at the top the length required, then measure from the top evenly across 10 
inches from the hand down. If two steels are required, allow 8 inches between the first and 
second. Where onl)- tiehacks are required, cut a piece of skirt lining o inches in depth and 2 
inches in width. To this fasten your elastic with a tape at tlie end where the steels would be if 
used. If three tiehacks are required, put eacii S inches apart, always using a strip of lining to 
join the elastic and tape to the skirt. 

Next, to cut tlie outside material: If it is to be a plain skirt, cut the outside material 
exactly like the lining. If light weight material is used, it should be lined through with a soft, 
fine crinoline, allowing for liems at the bottom. 

To join oil to the .•sliani. Begin by basting the middle of your material to tlie center of your 
front gore, baste each towards the side gore until you meet the back, then baste U}) the side seam 
to the waist-band. Now cut your back draping for a straight back twice the width of your sham 
lining, allowing for liems in length layin.g on the side back seam, beginning at the bottom and 
baste up to the waist-l;aud. Each side can be joined either by hand or by machine, right through 
tlie material covering the front and side gores and the lining. When extra draping is rec^uired 
it is adjusted afterwards. 



To Make a Kilt-Plaited Skirt. 

If the skirt is to be kilt all the way around, measure three times the widtii of the front 
and side gores and twice and a half the widtii of the back of the skirt. In laying plaits, lay 
the plaits at the bottom first to fit the Ijottom of the skirt, lapping them under until each plait 
meets the other, always keeping the straight grain of the goods on the cop edge of the phiit. 

Then lay the plait the desired lengtii, pinning at the top to fit the skirt, lapping each plait 
more as you near the top until it fits the waistband, doing all the lapping on the under side of tiie 
plait. Baste tlie plaits around the skirt width. Then to press those plaits : Lay the plaits wrong side 
out on the press board, the board being covered with soft white flannel. I suggest using llannel 
on the press board because the goods will never shine when pressed over fiannel. Then wring a 
piece of cotton cloth, wring hard out of water and lay smoothly on the plaits, laying another dry 
one over it, then press with the iron until both cloths are dry. The steam going through the 
goods presses the plaits in so they will not come out. In pressing plaits remember you are not 
ironing. Lift the iron from each plait to the other without sliding on the goods, always pressing 
from the bottom up. 

Next to Tape the Plaits. 

Use tape, sewing on the wrong side of the plait within one-half inch of the edge, ten inches 
from the bottom of the plaits. Tape evenly around the whole width of the skirt three times, ten 
inches between each taping. Turn and baste on your skirt around the bottom basting it to fit 
smoothly front and sides. Any extra width in the sham let it come in the back. Then be ])ar- 
ticular to baste the middle of your plaited skirt up the sham lining to band, then baste again uj> 
side gore, then across top, lapping each plait evenly, around the band any extra fullness. 



MME. YEITCH-SIMONDS' 



To Make a Box-Plaited Skirt. 

Follow tlie same rule as for kilts, having the material tliree times the width of the skirt if 
the plaits are to meet each other. 

If not, measure the distance of skirt desired, allowing tliree times the width of the plaits 
and once the width of space required to cover the bottom of the skirt. Baste and press the same 
as for kilt skirt. Tape the same. 

To Make a Double Box-Plaited Skirt. 

You will allow four times and a half the width of space it is to cover, laying first plain 
box plait, then one kilt directly under, leaving space on the right side of the width desired, from 
one-half to one inch. In taping, tape botli plaits at once. Press and finish the same as for kilt. 

To Make Box Plaits That Are Desired to Be Narrower at the Waist Line Than at 

the Bottom of the Skirt. 

The skirt must be made plain first. Tlien make the box plaits and set them on the skirt, 
as plaits that are not straight on the edge of the cloth will not hang well, or be even at the bot- 
tom, unless they are cut separatelj'^ and set on the skirt. 

To Allow for Shirred Skirt. 

Ordinary widtli of slurring requires twice the space it covers. Each row of shirring will 
take up one-quarter inch in length. As many rows of shirring as you desire to put across a skirt 
allow for each quarter of an incii, adding to the skirt length. 

Ruining. 

For ruftiing once and a iialf is the ordinarv width, unless it is required very full to Hute; 
then it would take one and three-quarters the width of tiie space it would cover. 

To Get the Length of the Drapery. 

First measure the length of the skirt, then always allowing tiie hem. If it is siiorter 
wlien draped, see what part of tiie skirt length it is by diviiling the space that it does not cover 
into the whole length and see what parts of the whole length are covered. 

If the drapery is raised higher at any one point, measure it and see how many inches it is 
raised in proportion to the skirt length. 

To Make an Apron Drapery. 

An apron drapery tiie proper width wlieii ilraped to cover one-third of the length 
of tlie skirt, three or five plaits are laid. For each plait allow four inches, as they are laid 
very deep and lay full across the front of skirt', l)eginning to plait five inches from the waist 
band, laying one plait after the other until all are laid, allowing the width uf the draping at the 



DEAPEBY SYSTEM CHAIIT. 



bottom whatever the skirt measures across at one-third of the length, as the bottom of an 
apron drapery mnst fit smoothly over the skirt. At tlie waist band lay darts to fit the skirt, the 
rest laying back to the side gore where it is cut away. 

To Make a Pointed Drapery. 

Cut the length of the .skirt, plait four deep four inch plaits on the right side, beginning 
at the side gore and plait towards the front, leaving a space in width to merely cover the front 
gore. Raise the left side twentj' inches from tiie liand and lay plaits towards the front on the 
band from the length, plaiting all up until it is all drau-n in, leaving drapei'y in a point. 

How to Cut a Drapery That Hangs Straight on One Side and Draped on the Other, 
Remaining Straight at the Bottom of the Si<irt. 

On the right side mark the drapery the skirt lengtli. On the left side allow three 
inches for each plait, allowing three or five plaits; if three, allow nine inches longer than the 
skirt length, sloping from this measure down to the mark of your skirt length on the right side 
and cut. Pin even at the bottom of the skirt and up the right side straight. Allow darts 
across the right side of the front gore to fit the skirt across to the middle, when beginning to lay 
plaits holding each plait lower than the other until all is plaited in the band three inches deep. 

To cut a drapery that hangs on either side straight with the skirt and even at the bottom, 
fullness must come in the middle. Then allow from 6 to 8 inches longer in tlie middle than the 
sides, cutting around from the side measure up to the middle of drapery, pin middle of drapery to 
middle of skirt band, lay your plaits towards the front each way, laying each plait, holding upper 
side of plait higher than the other until all is plaited in. 

To Get the Breadth of the Drapery. 

Measure across at the widest point of ch'apery. If plaits are laid in, measure around 
each plait, allowing according to the width of the skirt. If the drapery measures one and a 
half the widtii of front and side gores, then whatever your skirt, front and side gore measures, 
allow one-half again as much. 

For plaits that are laid deep across the front in draperies, allow from 3 to 4 inches in 
length for each plait. 

Plaits that run lengthwise in draperies are always allowed in the width. 

How to Cut a Princess Wrapper. 

Cut your waist lining in the same manner as for a basque, using the one dart and the 
French back always for wrappers. Cut out the darts in front lining and lap them at the 
bottom until trace lines meet. Tiien lay front on skirt lining. Be particular to join them 
straight. With darts lapped in this manner you have no fullness at the bottom of dart. When 
making a Princess Wrapper, this is a very important tiling to do. Then measure from the neck 
down the length re([uired, allowing 2 inches for making. Cut straight across the bottom, turn 
the gore about the same fiare as you make in the side gore of the skirt from two and one-half to 



10 MME. VEITCH-SIMOXPS' 



three inches wider at the bottom than where the basque length joins on to the skirt lining. You 
must be guarded by the lady's size about the hips, and ascertain if the lady likes a close fitting 
skirt. 

To Cut the Buck of Wrapper. 

Lay your back on the center of double width goods, allowing ten and one-half inches each 
side for fullness. Cut out plain to fit the lining down to two inches or two inches and a half 
below the waist line, then cut straight out 10 or 12 inches, allowing for fullness. 

To Cut a Side Body. 

Pin waist line straight on the goods, cut out the same as lining on front side down as far as 
the basque lining is, then cut straight to the bottom, allowing 2 inches for making the same as 
front, cut straight across the bottom. Cut the bottom once and a half the width of the side body 
where the waist body is joined to the skirt. This will give the right flare to the gore. When a 
train is required it is allowed only on the back. 

To Cut a Polonaise. 

Cut the lining the same as for basque, and lap darts the same as for Princess Wrapper. 
Join first under arm piece to the front 4 inches below the waist line. For very large hips allow 
more ; if small, allow less. 

To cut the goods, pin lining on cloth with waist line running even with the grain of goods, 
and cut from under arm down to the required length a perfect gore. If draping is used, leave 
straight from the bottom of waist lining until draped, then slope off as required. 

To Cut the Back. 

Pin your center back lining on the goods having waist line straight with the grain of the 
cloth allowing eight inches for fullness. Now pin side form lining on the same piece ten inches 
from the back, measure with square to get the waist lines even. When cutting out goods, cut 
down two inches or two inches and a half below the waist line. Cut across to the side body and 
around that down to the outside curve the length of the waist lining, but the rest of the skirt 
length must be cut straight. There is no goring on tiie back part of a polonaise. Where drapery 
is desired, allow in length as much as required. 

To Cut and Make Panels. 

Measure the width of your panel, get what projiortion it is of the bottom of the skirt, what 
part of the skirt width it covers. 

To Get the Length. 

If the whole length of skirt, take the skirt length. If it covers part of the length only, 
then see what part of the skirt length it covers. If it should be two thirds of the length, then it 
would be two-thirds of whatever your skirt length is. Divide your skirt length in three ])arts, 
and two of those jiarts would be two-thirds. Cut the crinoline the size the panel is to be when 



DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 11 



done, allowing for seams. Then baste closely on the goods, turn hems with crinoline in the hem. 
Then if it is to be loose from the front of the skirt it must be lined throughout witli either silk or 
any light lining that would correspond with the goods that is used. If it is to be attached to the 
skirt when the hem is turned, cat-stitch goods on to the crinoline. 

To Join It on to the Skirt. 

Baste even at the bottom, then baste up on to the skirt each side, turning darts in the 
panel at the waist line the same as the skirt is. Then turn the skirt inside out, holding lining 
towards you and slip-stitch panel on to the skirt. 

If the panels are to be joined on to the waist they should be cut 2 inches longer than the 
skirt length to allow for taking up. In hanging over the skirt it .always takes up in the length. 

To Cut and Make Cascades. 

Find the required length, same as length of panels. Find the width by measuring 
the breadth of cascade into whatever breadth the skirt space is to cover. Then for each 
cascade measure the breadth in proportion to the breadth of skirt, for each cascade allowing 
three times as many inches as the space it covers. If the cascade faces from right to left, lap the 
left top corner back to the right bottom corner, thereby making a three-cornered piece, then lay 
plaits, beginning at the longest length of goods, one over the other, which will form the cascade. 

To Make Bias Fokis or Bands. 

Double the cloth in a perfect three corner, make a true bias. Cut crinoline the width 
required for the band to be when done, allowing seams. Baste goods on to crinoline and turn seams 
on each side, cat-stitch down on to the crinoline and press. Then slip-stitch band on to skirt 
wherever it is required. 

Tiien to Set In the Vest. 

In making waists, we have vests set in. The silesia lining of the waist proper is always 
joined separately, either with hook-and-eye or buttoned up the center. Pin a piece of paper on the 
front of your waist, with the waist lapped double ; trim out the neck and front curve on the paper ; 
then cut the required depth up on the inside. Always allow for seams and laps. A vest set in in this 
manner should be lined with linen, having the curve up the center, to fit the curve in the waist, 
in the linen ; then baste on the material, without seam, allowing material enough wider than the 
linen to turn seam at each side, and face with silk. Baste one side of vest in the lining, pinning 
curved seam that is in the linen on center of vest on the edge of waist lining ; baste back around 
the neck and down the length of vest. One side of this vest can be sewed firmly on the lining. 
The other will be obliged to be hooked under revers. 




Figure i. 



HUAfKHY SYSTEM CIIIHT. IS 



HOUSE DRESS. 

(See Fi^i^. No. i.) 
This desii;n is very prettv ; to be used either U<x Wool Material iir for Wash Goods. 

To Cut Plaited Skirt. 

Cut sham according to sham rule, and cut goods for plaits three times the width of the front 
and side gores — whatever these measure, take three times that width. These plaits are laid in 
three — three plaits covering the side and half of the front, or making, in the whole, six plaits. 
Divide your front and side gores in six parts, and whatever one of these parts measures will be 
one-sixth, or the width required to lay each plait. Plaits may be decorated, if desired, according 
to plate. If decorated in this manner — the trimming on this plate is velvet and it would be neces- 
sary to line it with crinoline before covering plait — lay plaits at the bottom to fit lining ; measure 
the waist-band at the front and side gores and lap plaits at the top to fit the band ; press accord- 
ing to rule for pressing plaits, and tape three times ten inches from the waist down and ten 
inches apart from each plait, or divide your skirt length into five parts, beginning at the second 
part to lay one tape ; lay second tape at third part, and third tape at fourth part, leaving one-fiftii 
of the skirt length free at the bottom. In joining plaits on to the sham, baste at the bottom 
from the center of tiie front goi'e each way towards the back side gore seam ; baste up the 
center of the front from the bottom to the waist-band, then baste again over the front gore 
seam to the waist-band, then begin at the side gore seam where it joins into the back, always 
basting from bottom of skirt to the waist-band. The back of this skirt is laid in kilts (eight kilts), 
one overlapping the other closely at the band, with one tape ten inches from waist-band down. 
To cut material for this waist, cut the lining plain ; baste darts in the lining, and cut the 
material once and a half the width of the chest, to allow for fullness; gather on the lining across 
the chest width two-thirds of the waist length from bottom of the waist up; then lay fullness, 
which would have otherwise been laid in darts, in plaits — laying four one-inch plaits, lapping 
at the bottom of waist, one directly over the other. These plaits, when basted to fit the waist 
lining after the darts are basted in the lining, must be cut out on the under side, so as to remove 
thickness, which otherwise would be very clumsy and would not give smooth finish. Goods is 
stretched from the first under arm seam to these plaits, which are cauglit on the lining, from the 
bottom of the waist up, the same depth as would have been basted in the darts. The bottom of 
waist is finished with bias band of velvet, cut to fit the curve of the bottom of the basque. To 
fiyd the length of yoke, measure what part of waist length it covers at longest point. The yoke 
measures five-eighths of an inch ; the whole length of the waist, from neck to waist line, is one 
and three-quarters inches. In one and three-quai'ters inches there are fourteen eighths. In five- 
eighths there would be five-fourteenths of the waist length ; or, divide your waist length into 




Figure 2, 



DEAPERY SYSTEM CHAET. 15 



fourteen parts, and five times what one of these parts measures would be tlie required depth to 
cut the yoke at longest point. At tlie arm's eye, measure from the shoulder down, which 
measures three-eighths, whicli would be three-fourteenths, which would be the required length 
of yoke at arm's eye. Tiiis yoke may be decorated according to " plate " or not, as desired. To 
cut those sleeves, we first cut a plain lining — coat sleeve. Then, to find how long to cut the 
goods, measure what part of the sleeve the goods cover. The cuff measures one-half of the 
sleeve length from the wrist to the elbow. This upper part of sleeve must be allowed one-third 
longer than the sleeve length from the arm's eye to cuff, to allow for fullness; and to get width, 
cut the goods one-third wider than the plain sleeve lining, there being only one seam in this 
material, which is joined over the inside seam of lining. Cut the goods straight at the bottom, 
and curve at the top according to depth required for gathers. 



STREET DRESS. 

(Sie F,g. A'.K 2.) 

In giving illustrations I will endeavor to choose those that I can make most plain, as the 
same rules will apply to all draperies. 

First measure the skirt length, tis all parts of the skirt decoration lengths must be got in 
proportion to that. 

This skirt measures four and one-half inches. Cut sham according to sham rule. 

This drapery in breadth just covers the sham plain, hence it is cut the width of the front 
and side gores. This drapery takes both from the length and breadth ; all plaits that lay across 
are allowed in the length, and those which run lengthwise are in the breadth. Those run both 
ways, so you must allow for them both in length and breadth. To acquire tlie breadth of these 
plaits which are laid two and a half inches deep, it would require 5 inches for each one. To 
find where to lay them, measure the waist from the middle of the front to the side seam, which 
measures halt an inch. Now, see what distance from the middle of waist the first plait is 
laid, which is three-quarters of the whole measure, you lay your first plait. 

To find how much to allow in length for plaits where the drapery merely wrinkles as those 
do, it requires 2 inches for each one. That would take 6 inches, as there are three wrinkles which 
lay across the drapery. Then this drapery would require 20 inches more in breadth than the 
band measures across the side and front gore for the four plaits, and would require 6 inches more 
than the skirt length for the wrinkles. 

Then three-quarters of the distance from the front to the side gore pin the middle of the 
top of your drapery to the middle of waist band. Now pin again 2 inches down in the goods at 
the place marked to lay the fii'st plait, holding tlie goods in your right hand lower than the left, 
pin and lay your plait two and one-half inches deep. Do the same with the second plait, hold- 
ing the goods lower in the right hand 2 inches than the left, which hold at the end of the 5 inches 
which laps in the plait, then again at the side seam, raise the goods 2 inches and you have the 
exact length for the side of vour skirt left. 

Now, the band at the bottom must be such a depth in proportion to the length of the 




1 ^'y\/J 



lift >v'' -^T i^ -<■)-' 



'Sf 









"•_^<^ ^5§:^> 



=^(. 



^ 

^^-^4 

^ 




FlGU ^ 



DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 17 



skirt. The band measures one-quarter of an inch. In the whole length of the skirt, measure 
four and one-half inches, or in one incli there are four quarters, in four and one-half inches 
there are eighteen quarters^ hence the width of the band would be one-eighteenth of the skirt length. 

The gimp is three-eighths of an inch. The skirt is four and one-half inches in length. 

In one inch, eight eighths, in four and one-half inches there would he thirty-si.K eighths; 
hence the gimp will be three thirty-sixths or one-twelfth of the skirt length. 

How to get one-twelfth of the skirt length : Divide whatever your skirt length is into 
twelve equal parts, and one of those parts will be one-twelfth. The same to one-eighteenth ; 
divide into eighteen equal parts, and one of those parts will be one-eighteenth. The back is 
straight. 

To Trim the Waist. 

How to get the length to set in the vest : Measure the waist length to waist line, which is 
one and three-quarter inches. Now measure the length of vest, which is three-quarters of an inch. 

To get what part of the whole length three-quarters of an inch is, reduce the whole 
length to quarters, which would contain seven charters. Three-quarters of an inch would be 
three-sevenths of the whole length, or divide whatever the length of your waist is into seven 
parts, and whatever one of those parts measure, three times that amount would be three-sevenths, 
or the right proportion to make the length of vest according to this plate. 

Now, how wide to make vest: Measure width of chest from center of front to arm's-eye, 
measures five-eighths of an inch. The whole width would be twice five-eigthths, equal to one 
and one-quarter inches at the widest part. One-half of the vest measures one-quarter inch, the 
whole would measure twice one-quarter or one-half of an inch. 

The width would be two quarters. In one and one-quarter inch there is five fourths. 
Then one-half would be two-fifths of the chest width at the widest part of vest, which is at the 
neck. Then slope vest down to the bottom at the required length. 

To cut collars or revers at the widest part measures one-quarter of an inch or one-fifth of 
the chest width. The length is three-quarters of an inch on the bias side. On the straight side 
the length is five-eighths of an inch, or one-eighth inch shorter on the straight edge, the difference 
in the length being caused bv the bias side. 



^b" 



To Cut Balance of Collar. 

Pin revers on waist. Measure your waist from two-thirds of the width of revers to the 
center of the back. 

Now measure 2 inches down the back from the neck on the waist around to the shortest 
point of revers, and you have the outside length. 

To make it slashed like the plate, turn back the outside corner half the width. Then 
measure one-half the length of the inside measure of the collar, then slope from this one-half of 
the inside of the collar down to one-half of the width and join collar on to revers two-thirds the 
width of revers, and your collar is complete. 

The gimp on the waist is one of the points the same as on the skirt, beginning at the 
shoulder seam. 




Figure 4. 



l>l:.\fKl!V SYSTEM ciLiin: i-» 



BRIDAL ROBE. 

(Sec- Fig. A'c. S-) 

To get the length of skirt measure plate from waist line to bottom 5 inches. To get the 
length of Van Dyke slash three-quarters of an inch. In the whole length there is 5 inches. 
When reduced to quarters there would be twenty quarters, then three-quarters of an inch would 
be three-twentieths of the whole length. 

Divide your skirt length into twenty equal parts, and whatever one of those parts measures 
three times that measure would be the depth to cut the slash. 

To Get Draping". 

There are three deep plaits. In each plait is 4 inches. 

The drapery would be cut 12 inches longer in the middle and across the front than on the 
sides, which is just the skirt length. 

To drape it pin the center of drapery to the center of skirt band. Then begin to lay plait 
from the front gore, one plait after the other the half of the space, laying plaits towards the front, 
each side the same ; the sides of drapery fitting the side gore smoothly, being gored up each side 
the same as sham. 

To find how many points or blocks to cut the bottom of the drapery into : There are 
eight blocks. Divide the bottom of the drapery into eight parts, and whatever one of those parts 
measures would be the width to cut each block. 

The lace under blocks requires once and a half the widtli of the bottom of tlie skirt to 
gather on sham. 

To Cut a Trained Skirt. 

Cut front and side gore the same as for walking length. Cut back twice the width of 
walking length, skirt width, which would be 44 inches, the half of width. Then wlien joining a 
side gore to the back begin at the top and ba.ste down to within 12 inches of the bottom of the 
side gore. Here insert a gore or gusset 12 inches long on the front and 18 inches on the back or 
gored side, making the slope once and a half the length of the front of tlie gusset. This gore 
must be in every skirt that has a train, to give flare when the lady walks. It should be cut in 
the sham. If this is not in, as the lady w-alks the weight of the train draws on the side gore, 
raising it from the ground. The back of the train is cut perfectly straight, any length desired, 
but must be 44 inches, the half of breadth. 

To Cut Trimming" for Waist. 

Measure the length of waist that the trimming covers, which is one-half ihe waist length. 
To get fullness, it will require twice the length of space it covers. For lace, it will require twice 
the width of the space it covers. 




Figure 5. 



imAPERY SYSTEM CHAUT. 21 



To get the length of ;i point that is opened at the neck, get the whole waist length from 
neck to waist line, which is one and three-quarters inches. The space cut open is one-half an 
inch. In the whole length there are seven quarters. Then one-half inch would be two-sevenths 
of the whole length, and would be tlie right distance to make a point at tlie neck. 

All lengths in trimming on waist are to be measured in proportion to tlie length of waist. 

To Cut Sleeves. 

Always cut the lining plain. Tlie outside being allowed for puff or drapery from ?> to 4 
inches longer than the lining all tlie way across .tlie top of sleeve, tiie length being laid in plaits 
when joined on the lining, the breadth being gathered around the top of lining. 

It is needless to give descri]>tions for fastening the veil, as tliat is adjusted according to 
fancy. 

TAILOR-MADE GOWN. 

(See Fig. No. 4.) 

To make a dress of tiiis style, it requires heavy material, as any liglit weight goods would 
not hang well in this design. In designing a dress, always select the design in accordance with 
your cloth. First, you must kuow wiiat goods you are to use in the dress, whether of light weight 
texture or heavy material. Never use full, heavy draping in heavy goods. Cut .sham and face 
it up the required depth, or the depth of the slashes, in this drapery. 

It may either be faced up plain or trimmed with a kilt plaiting, fine goods being used 
under this sla.shing, which plait in spaces so the plaits will come in each space where the 
drapery is slashed. 

To find what distance apart to lay clusters of plaits, measure blocks in draping ; measure 
skirt from the center of the front gore to the side gore, which is laid in two and one-half 
blocks, or the whole width being laid in five blocks the whole width of skirt front and side 
gores. Divide your width into five parts. Whatever one of those parts measures would be the 
required width to cut the blocks. To get the depth of blocks, measure skirt length, which 
measures four and three-quarters inches. The depth of slash measures one and one-quarter inch. 
In one inch there are four quarters, in four inches there would be sixteen quarters, and three- 
quarters of an inch would make nineteen quarters, which divides your skirt length into nineteen 
parts, and this slash is cut one and one-quarter inch. In one and one-quarter inch there would 
be five quarters, or five-nineteentlis of the whole skirt length. 

This drapery is cut to fit the sham — no fullness allowed either way in breadth or length. 
Cut gore the same as sham and dart at waist line to fit the l)and. Tiie basque is plain coat 
basque with braid decorations in military style. To find how long to cut basque, measure from 
neck to waist line, which measures one and tliree-quarter inch. From waist line to bottom of 
basque measure one inch, or in one and tliree-quarter inch, the length of waist, there are seven 
quarters. Below the waist line the basque measures one inch, or four-sevenths of the length of 
waist, or divide your waist length into seven parts, and whatever one of those parts measure, four 
times that amount would be the required length to cut the basque below the waist line. 




Figure 6. 



DRAPERY SYSTEM CHART. 23 



To get the width of blocks in the basque : There are three blocks and one-half in the 
front of waist eacii side. Lap bottom of basque in three and one-half parts, and whatever one of 
these parts measures would be the width to cut block, and to get the depth of slash, measure one- 
half of tlie length of basque from the waist line down. Each block is basted firmly down and 
faced the whole depth with silk, the facing being cut to fit the bottom of basque and hemmed 
down on the wrong side. Each slash is decorated with braid. Coat sleeves finished witli a cuff 
one-third of the depth of the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist. Cuff decorated with buttons 
and cord. 

To find how to decorate the waist : To find the different lengths of cord, measure from 
the neck down the longest point in the center, which measures one and one-eighth inch ; in the 
whole waist length there is one and three-quarter inch. In one and three-quarter inch there are 
eleven eighths. In one and one-eighth inch there are nine eighths, or nine-elevenths of the waist 
length. The longest cord decoration is cut. The second one is cut one-ninth shorter, the third two- 
ninths shorter and the fourth three-ninths shorter. The three others are cut opposite in proportion 
with the first three. This waist is finished with a standing collar, which is cut according to rule 
for collar. In cutting back draperies to heavy materials, I would suggest laying fewer plaits, and 
so using one-fourth less material. You can lay each plait under well with one-fourth less goods, 
which makes the dress lighter, which, in this age of dress reform, is very necessary to study. 



RECEPTION DRESS. 

(ScY Fig. jVo.j.) 

This dress is made of two materials. Combination : materials of two colors of wool goods 
or silk and wool goods and velvet are recjuired for this dress. Decorations of lace and gimp. First 
find the skirt length. To get length of draperies, which measure 5 inches, cut sham according 
to sham rule, and face up sham the required depth on the front and right side gore, (hi the left the 
dress goods is jilain ; at the Ijottom on the lining and fullness gathered in at the lop, one straight 
breadth being required the width of the side gore at the bottom. Instead of cutting to fit the 
side gore, extra width is gatliered in at the waist-band. On this side there are two lace ruffles. 
Follow rule for ruffles, usuig twice the width of space they cover. To get the depth of ruffles, 
see what part of the skirt length the ruffles cover. The two ruffles cover 1 inch, or one-fifth of 
the skirt lengtli. One ruffle would be one-half inch, or one-tenth of the skirt length. 

For drapery on front gore. cut one straight width the width of the front gore at the bottom, 
the fullness coming from the .skirt being narrower at the top. Ilun draperies straiglit uj) the side 
of the front gore, lay in plaits to fit the front of skirt at tiie band towards the middle, three 
plaits on the left side and four on the right. Plait to fit the front gore at the band. On the 
right side there are kilt plaits, three in number, wliich require three times tlie space they cover, 
measuring at the bottom of the gore ; lay three jilaits to fit side gore at the wai.st-band. Tape 
plaits three times, heginning 10 inches from the waist-band: jiut eacii tape 10 ir.ches apart. In 
joining kilts over drapery, begin at the bottom and baste the inside of the first plait up the side 




Figure 



miAVKllY SYSTEM CIIART. 25 



gore to tlie Wiiist-hand. In sewing, sew the tapes in this seuin firmly, tlieii turn panel over and 
baste in the side gore where it joins in the back width. Then join on back (lra])ery, which is, 
back of this dress, cut Princess. 

Front of Waist. 

First cut i)lain waist on the left side. On the right side cut plain waist down to the darts, 
over whicli is di'aped material same as draping, beginning from the first under arm seam, 
stretching goods over lining to hrstdart; instead of basting in the dart lay j)laits in drapery to 
fit waist lining. This drapery is double-breasted, for which allow twice the width of chest. 
What would be used in darts is laid in plaits, Uiree on each side of the center of waist. This 
draj)ery may be trimmed as plate with gimp, or any decoration that is desired. The bottom of 
waist is covered with a girdle, covered with velvet and gimp. 

To cut girdle, pin a paper to the bottom of the waist, from the waist line down to the 
bottom. Cut the sluipe of tlie bottom of waist from tlie middle to the first under arm seam, 
.loin the girdle in the center, fasten on the right side to the center of waist and to the end of the 
drapery, and hook over to the left umler arm seam. To get the length of this drapery, measure 
waist length, then measure what space of waist it covers. The waist length to the waist line 
measures 2 inches. This space, covered at the center of waist, is three-quarters of an incli, or 
three-(iuarters of the waist length. At tlio longest point, at the arm's eye, it measures an inch 
and tiiree-quarters, or six-eighths of the waist length. 

X'elvet sleeves are used in this design, which are finished at the wrist with buttons running 
half the length of the sleeve, from the wrist to the elbow. Neck decorations finished with lace, 
or may be finished with a collar if desired. 

This is a very pretty design to use in making over a dress, or where a lady would like to 
use two materials. 



MORNING DRESS. 

(Scv J-'/g. A'li. 6. ) 

The mode of this design is a style which is very much in vogue and well adapted for street 
or ottice dress, anything where a plain, neat dress is rec^uired. 

To get length of drapery, measure skirt length, which measures 5 inches. The draping in 
this drapery comes in the breadth, none in length. To get breadth of draping, measure the 
width of the front and side gores, cut straight. To get the draping, measure waistband from the 
center of front to where the side gore and back join, beginning to lay first plait over the front 
gore seam. Divide space from front gore seam to side gore seam, and lay second plait in center 
of band between the gores. Lay first plait one inch and a half in depth ; second plait two inches 
and a half in dejtth at hand, holding top of jdait lower than under side of plait, as the drapery 
at the side gore is longer in the center of the front on account of the gored seam. This back is 
laid in double box plaits, being taped once, 10 inches from the waistband down ; press plait 
thoroughly before joining to skirt; join according to rule. The waist to this dress is cut double- 
breasted, the double lireast running diagonal from right to left. 



r:^/ \ 




FiGlFE S. 



nUM'KRY SYSTEM CHANT. 27 



It would be necessary to cut this lining each side double-breasted. On the left side of the 
cloth at the shoulder is laid three plaits ; for each allow 2 inches. In cutting shoulder length, 
measure your length of lining and cut material 6 inches longer, then baste in plaits to fit waist 
lining and proceed witii cutting the arm's eye and under arm curve. This side is cut double-breasted 
one-half of the waist length up to the left shoulder. The right side is cut double-breasted from 
one-half of the waist length to the bottom. Cut double-breast back over the left side to the last 
dart. Instead of laying darts in material stretch goods over lining on the right side and lay 
goods which would be used in darts in three plaits. Just across the center of lining on the left 
side towards the front, baste plaits up one-third of the waist length. It is necessary to finish the 
edge of this double breast either with gimp or revers to cover the fastening. 

Sleeves are cut plain coat sleeve. High standing collar at neck. Follow rule for cutting 
collar. The back of the bottom of the basque is cut tlie same as front, short point. On bottom 
of drapery this skirt is decorated with gimp, which may be used or not according to fancy. 

In using skirt decorations aUvays measure plate to see what depth they cover, what part of 
the skirt length is required in proportion, so as not to get a deep trimming on a short skirt, as 
all trimmings running across tend to shorten the figure. 

All long trimmings running from the waist length to the bottom of skirt add to the height 
in effect. 

LADY'S TEA GOWN. 

{S,r Fig. No. 7.1 

Cut lining according to rule for Princess Wrapper. This wrapper is cut double fronts, the 
lining proper cut tight fitting; the double front is cut with one dart, being cut the same as under 
lining, only being cut away the required width to show vest and front of skirt. The lining 
proper darts are stitched in separate, the lining being buttoned up in front separate from the 
goods. 

To find out how much material to allow in front, take twice the width it is to cover at the 
bottom of the skirt. Being shirred at the neck, there are three shirs ; allow half an inch for each 
one, which takes up in length. 

To find how far to cut away to show the vest, measure the chest width. One-half of the 
chest width measures three-quarters of an inch ; then the whole width would be one and one-half 
inch. The vest covers one-half an inch, or one-third of the chest width. At the bottom, 
measure from the center front to the side gore, which measures one and three-quarter inch. The 
half of front vest measures at the bottom one half an inch. The whole would measure one 
inch, or twice as wide at the bottom of the skirt as at the vest in the waist at the widest point. 
These double sides are fastened down after the vest is inserted and trimmed with lace on plain. 
Any mode of decoration may be used. 

To find where to adjust belt: Measure front of waist length and set the belt half way 
below the waist line and one-half above. The back of this wrapper is cut Princess and train. 
Follow rule given for train. 

The sleeves are cut coat sleeve, wide at the wrist with flaring cuff. 




Figure o. 



DRAPERY SYSTKM (IIAHT. 29 



How to cut tliu cull': Measure width of cutt at the hand. One-half measures five-eigliths 
of an inch. Measure width of cufl' on the upper edge. One-half measures three-quarters of an 
inch or one-eighth more than at the hand. The whole widtli at the hand would be one and one- 
quarter inch. Tiie width at the toj) would be one and one-half inch, or one-sixth more of what 
the measure is at the hand, which gives the flare. The cuff must be one-sixth wider of what- 
ever the sleeve is at the hand at the top to get the flare of cuff. 

It should be lined with Hnen and faced with the material of dress. The sleeve is all 
finished before the cuff is .set on. 

The right side of cuff is cut twice the length of the linen, to give length to goods to face 
up inside of the sleeve. 

To baste in sleeves, begin with the under arm one-half inch below the side curve in the 
back of the waist, holding the waist towards you. Baste around the armhole to the seam on the 
front of the sleeve, beginning back at the back seam of the sleeve; again holding the sleeve 
towards you, and baste around to the shoulder seam. Then any gathers or fullness that is 
required, put from the shoulder seam within two inches or two inches and a half towards the 
front, holding the sleeve toward you while basting the top part in the waist. Any gathers or 
fullness in the sleeve must be regulated by the size of the lady. If a tall, slim lady, they can be 
spread more, therefore adding to the breadth of her shoulders. If a large, fleshy lady, gather 
the sleeve closer and throw it higher to add to the length of her waist. 



MOURNING COSTUME. 

(.SVf Fig No. S.) 

This design is suitable for a mourning costume. It should be made of two materials, using 
Henrietta or nuns veiling for drapery, and crepe cloth for body of waist and skirt decorations and 
sleeves. Cut the skirt according to sham rule, and cover right side of skirt gore from the front 
seam back one half, which is the width at the bottom, with crepe cloth, laying clusters of tucks. 
There are five clusters of tucks, the first cluster being six tucks, which allow two inches, as each 
tuck is laid one inch in depth. In the second cluster there are five tucks the same depth, the 
third cluster five, fourth five, and fifth three. Allowing two inches for each tuck, it would require 
forty-eiglit inches longer than the skirt length to be allowed for tucks. When your goods 
is tucked then baste on to the side gore, beginning at front of gore, and baste across the bottom, 
then up the front seam to the waist line ; balance of side gore is covered with revers of crepe and 
two kilt plaits of goods. The crepe cloth revers covers one-half of tlie space, and the two kilt 
plaits the other half. Baste on revers first over the tucked panel and roll back, baste it from the 
bottom up to the waist band on to tlie lining, then lay on the kilt plaits from the bottom up to 
waist line, then across the bottom, and up to the side gore, where it joins in the back of the skirt 
to waist line, lapping the plaits at waist line to fit the band. 

To cut drapery : This drapery is cut straight skirt length at the right side, fullness coming 
in extra length being allowed on the left side of drapery. In this drapery there are five plaits, 
each plait 2 inches deep, which would require 10 inches of material. Part of this drapery comes 



iiiiai'Khy system ciiiht. 31 



in tlie widtli and part in tlie length. For each plait allow in length 2 inches, which would 
require the draping cut 10 inches longer than the skirt length on the left side. Cut straight 
breadth, baste draping up the front .side, gore seam on the right side and across the band at the 
top to the center, then imste across the bottom around to the side gore, where it joins the back 
on skirt, and baste up side gore to within (i inches of tlio waist lino, where lay two plaits in 
length on side gore, the other three plaits Ijeing laid in the waist band over the side gore, from 
the side gore to the front gore seam, holding your goods in right hand, lower each plait until all 
extra length is laid in the five plaits, dropping each one 2 inches. The back of this dress is cut 
Princess. This waist is cut plain basque with drapery of Henrietta cloth draped from the left 
shoulder around to the right under arm seam. To cut drapery, allow for j)laits in the drapery. 
There are four plaits, for which allow each 2 inches, each plait being laid 1 inch in depth ; allow 
8 inches longer than the shoulder length of waist line ; baste drapery around the armhole and down 
the first under arm seam, stretching goods over the lining to the second dart on tlie right side, 
beginning at the bottom and lay four plaits towards the center of the waist 1 inch in depth one 
after the other, and finish the edge cascade of goods, for which cascade use three and one-half 
times the space it covers. Measure from the neck on the left side down to the right under arm 
seam, and three times and a half what that length would measure will be the amount of the 
material required in this cascade. Lay in side plaits one-half inch in depth and press. Then 
gather and baste on to the drapery. Gather it up to fit the length of the drapery. This waist is 
closed down the center with small flat buttons, and the drapery hooks over from left to right. 
The bottom of basque is finished witli revers of crepe cloth on the left side, cut to fit the bottom 
of basque ; on the right side the drapery is finished with a bow of the goods, which either may 
be of dress material or gros grain ribbon, when it is required for mourning. 



MOTHER HUBBARD WRAPPER. 

( Slv /''ig. No. {). ) 

To cut a Mother Hubbard Wrapper, cut a plain waist lining the length of waist. Cut yoke 
for wrapper one-third of the waist length. To cut the skirt of Mother Hubbard Wrapper, measure 
from one-tiiird of the waist length from the neck down the required length and add 2 inches to 
that length to allow for making. Allow wrapper three yards at the bottom. Cut straight lengths 
and plait, or gather as desired on to fit the yoke, leaving width under arms to cover the lining 
plain across the arm-hole, from the front yoke to back yoke. When basted on to lining, trim out 
arm-holes in the goods, laying one-fifth more of the width in the back of the wrapper than the 
front, or divide the width required for wrapper into five parts, laying three-fifths of the widtii in 
the back of the yoke, two-fifths in the front of yoke. To cut this sleeve: Cut plain coat sleeve 
lining, which covers one-half of the length of sleeve from the wrist to the elbow, with material for 
cutf. Then to cut puff, allow one-fifth of tlie sleeve length from the top of the sleeve to the cuff; 
allow one-fifth of the length longer for fullness in length and allow half of the sleeve lining width 
more in breadth to allow for fullness in l)readtli. Yoke may be decorated according to fancy. To 
get the lengths of ribljons on this plate, measure the skirt length from the yoke, down which meas- 



82 MMK. VKITCH-SIMOXDS' 



ures t> inches; then moasnro whiit part of the length is covered with ribbon. Length of ribbon 
measures live and tlnve-quarters inclies, or in inches tliere are twenty-four quarters: in live and 
three-quarters there are twenty-three fourths, or three twenty-fourths of the skirt lengtli. To tind 
how much lo allow for the bows of ribbon, measure lengtli of loops, wliich measure 2 inches in 
length, would require 4 inches, or two-thirds of the skirt length for each loop. This ribbon may 
be used or not as desired. This rule for cutting Mother Hubbard Wrapper may be used either for 
wash goods or for wool goods. 



o^ 



WALKING DRESS. 

This dress is cut Princess. To cut the lining, follow rule for Princess Dress. To cut the 
back of dress, cut goods same as lining. The front is cut with drapery. Fii"st cut lining and 
stitch up darts, leaving material out 2 inches below the waist line of the darts. In cutting 
material allow for draping in both width and length. In length there are live plaits ; allow 2 
inches for euch plait in depth, which would be 10 inches, to cut longer than the skirt length ; also 
allow for the hem, as the bottom of this is draped separate from the lining. The front of drapery 
is cut away one and one-quarter inch or the skirt length measuring three and three-quarter 
inches: one and one-quarter would be one-third of the skirt length. The drajjery would be 
cut siiorter or simply lap the corner back, and it would make its own facing — lap back 4 
inches. The front and side gore measures one and one-quarter inch. The width of drapery at 
bottmu when draped covei-s one inch, or four-fifths of the width of the skirt. To this add the 
width of plaits in the drapery. The first plait me;isures one-quarter of an inch, or one-fifth of the 
skirt width, the second plait the same,which would be one-fifth of the skirt width, or divide your side 
gore and half the front width in five parts, and whatever one of those parts measures, twice that 
amount would be two-fifths of the width, which add to the four-fifths of the width which we found 
when measuring the drapery when draped. The front gore of the skirt is covered with a fancy 
bordered goods, or w'ith material with a fancy border, with one box plait down the center of 
front. This plait measures one-half inch. The half of the front gore measures three-quarters 
of an inch. The whole width of front would be one inch and one-half, making the box plait 
one-third of the width of the front gore when plaited. Divide your front gore into three equal 
parts. Whatever one of those parts measures would be one-third. For this plait must be allowed 
thive times one-third of the front width. 

To L:iy Phits in Dnipins^'. 

Begin at the waist line and lay five plaits, one after the other, laying two inches in 
depth. Lay waist lining on material, then measure vour skirt length with the ten inches added 
to it for the length of drapery : then, at this point, measure the width across the drajiery : then 
gore from tins up to the waist lining to get the side curve of drapery wliich joins in the side 
seam of the skirt. 

The waist lining is buttoned up separately from the material, the material being cut away 
to allow for vest. 



hUM'KHY sysTHM clLlirr. 33 



To gel the widtli of vest, measure chest width. The iialf measures one-lialf iucli, llie 
wliole would measure oue inch. The widest poiut of vest measures oue-half iueii, or one-half of 
the chest width. The vest at waist line measures one-quarter inch, or one-half of the width 
which is at the neck or widest point. Tiiis vest is set in and made according to rule for vest, one 
side being fa.sten.ed firmly on the lining, tiie other hooking over and under the material of waist. 
Plain coat sleeve allowed with fullness at the top, which designer should use taste and judgment, 
allowing in proportion to the lady's figure. On this "plate" it is tiirown up one-eighth of an 
inch, or one-seventeenth of the sleeve length. Whatever system of cutting is used, it should 
give rule for cutting sleeves and allowing gathers, but designers should use judgment. If for 
a slim lady cut wider and liigli, if for a ileshy, short lady cut narrower and high, allowing 
notliing across the width of arm. 



THE BENEFITS OF SCIENTIFIC DRESSMAKING. 

The want of a scientific method of cutting leads to results not only annoying and actually 
ruinous to the dressmaker, but is exceedingly disagreeable to her customers. It not unfrequently 
happens that a customer presents herself who is pressed for time, and the work-room must be 
neglected to go through the tedious process of fitting her dress. It very often happens that the 
lady knows (or thinks she does) more about the business than does the modiste. Accordingly when 
the modiste has begun the most arduous part of her duty, the lady takes her position before the 
glass, and while she indulges in a volume of advice concerning the dressmaker's business generally, 
she tells her where to cut, how to pin, etc., until the distressed dressmaker begins to doubt whether she 
is under a course of in.struction or actually employed to cut a dress. It sometimes happens that the 
lady, although she may be utterly ignorant of dressmaking, will succeed, by a series of questions, 
which it would be impolite not to answer, in getting as good a knowledge of the business as the 
dressmaker, with the exception that she cannot, from want of practice, handle the shears and pins 
with as much facility ; but she is quite as capable of niakmg a dress as the modiste wlio works 
without system. .Tiie fact is, the dressmaker who works without rule has no advantage over her 
customer. 

It is undeniable that all garment cutting without system amounts to mere speculation ; 
the dress may fit, or it may not. Without it, the dressmaker has no certainty of cutting with 
accuracy ; and it is a duty the dressmaker owes to herself, as well as to her customers, to discard 
at once and forever the old, tedious, ruinous and uncertain mode of draping, which the march of 
improvement has rendered ridiculous, and embrace an easy and perfect principle, the adoption of 
which will open to her professional experience a new and glorious era, investing it with an 
increase of dignity, respect and profit. It is time that the dressmaker ceased to toil, and made her 
calling an artistic and rational procedure, the pursuit of wdiich will give pleasure at every step. 

We have seen that the modiste has before her a scientific and artistic work, and she must 
needs have a scientific and artistic training if she would succeed. This book of designing sup- 
plies all that is essential to success, and it is the only method of draping that does. It meets 
fully all the requirements of the subject. It states and illustrates the principles which underlie 



84 MME. VErnH-SIMOXDS- 



the ait, and puts the artist in dross on a course of training, whicli, if faitlifully pursued, shall 
secure to her a perpetual development in her art and educate her in every branch of her business. 

It elevates dress-cutting to a commanding rank among the formative or industrial arts, 
and reduces its principles to an exact method and system. Tiie commonsense method of 
acquiring arithmetical skill is by a study of the ground rules, so that the rational method of 
acquiring skill in dress-cutting is by the study of it5 principles. It enables and compels the one 
who uses it to be exact as well as practical, and makes the cutting of a dress an attractive and 
orderly procedure, instead of a wearisome guess-work, as it now is to many dressmakers. It is a 
scientific invention, but simple and not diflicult to learn. Being based on mathematics, it assures 
in advance an accurate result and never fails. By this system dresses are actually drafted from 
measurements by means of a tape, and all the lengths and the widths of the draperies are obtained 
from measures t-aken of the figure for which the garment is intended, in the same manner as 
practiced by tailors in cutting gentlemeirs garments. When this system is used a lady can leave 
her measure and material with her dressmaker and have her dress returned to her with the same 
precision of fit as the gentleman who orders a coat from his tailor. It teaches to draw every part 
of the garment from the measures, including all the curves. A difficult or unusual figure can be 
fitted with as much precision, ease and comfort as a figure whose proportions are symmetrical. It 
assures accuracy in every case and gives the modiste a thorough mastery of her business. The 
longer she uses it the more skill she acquires. It is the only possible means by which she can 
master the art of designing, unless she has been trained in the art of drawing. It banishes guess- 
work, and gives a perfect fit without alteration, and avoids the loss of time, labor and anxiety 
which alteratious produce. 

It elevates the art of dress cutting to the art of the tailor. It not only produces the best 
and most satisfactory results obtainable, but it enables one to do much more of the same kind of 
work in the same length of time. It saves time and, as " time is money. '" it saves money. To 
persons knowing this systemHhoroughly and understanding the ready application of its principles, 
it becomes a capital in business and a source of profit. Every lady should have not only a keen 
appreciation of the beautiful and a true eye to detect the minutest lines of grace, but some knowl- 
edge of the human form — the perfection of which knowledge is the very basis of painting and 
sculpture ; while, on the other hand, the followei-s of the fine arts, as well as possessing a knowl- 
edge of anatomy, must be perfectly familiar with and have an excellent taste in dress. In this 
latter regard, however, there is one grand difference between the sculptor and the lady artist, viz.: 
the former exercises his skill upon a lifele-ss type of humanity, while the latter seeks to adorn the 
living, breathing, glowing reality. The sculptor spares no pains to make his drapery suitable 
to his figure and pleasing to the eye of the most refined and fastidious — nor does he 
strive in vain if he be master of the art. He is successful, and his success is sure to secure for 
him the warm ajiproval of all, but especially of those who judge understandingly and critically. 
If, then, drapery of the inanimate marble calls forth the greatest powers of the sculptor, should 
not the living form be treated with a little more consideration ? 

Under the existing order of things, every attention is paid to designing the pattern of a 
dress, while the cutting and making is a secondary consideration which is about equal to 
putting a fine piece of marble into the hands of a sculptor who only half undei-standshis business. 



DRAPKRV SYSTEM CHART. 35 



Tlie more we consider this subject, tlie more wonderful it seems to us tliat in tliis pro- 
gressive, pushing age, wlien iniprovcuients are daily being made in almost every branch of 
industry and readily adopted, tiiat the dressmakers of the country are not more active in keeping 
abreast of liic times. Years ago their indifference migiit have been excused, when conservatism 
was more fashionable than at present. Time was when tailors might be found who, imbedded in 
their antifpiated notions, rather than adopt a manifest improvement, were content to pick up a 
penurious existence by going around the country making up garments in the old style. They 
knew no system, and practiced none. But the times have changed. 

If a tailor at the present day should seek employment as a cutter in a first-class establish- 
ment, and admit that ho cut without system, in all probability he would be thought a lunatic. 
And yet we might with the same propriety cut a gentleman's as a lady's garment without system- 
There is not the slightest difference, except the latter is more difficult. The principle is precisely 
the same. 

Why is it that the dressmaker has so long been the subject of incessant toil, and the 
recipient of scanty remuneration ? Is it because our ladies are not willing to pay fair prices for 
having their work done, especially when they cannot do it themselves? Not at_all. The painfuj 
fact is that the want of system on the part of tlie dressmaker has made for her a competitor in 
almost every family. And so it is and ever must continue to be with the dressmaker from the 
very nature of the case till she learns to excel the ordinary seamstress. 

We believe the time is at hand when dressmaking will be as great a success as tailoring. 
The great drawback is scarcity of practical and tasteful ladies to take hold of it as a business. 

Notiiing will pay half so well if the lady has been properly instructed. Dressmaking is 
an art that can and ought to be taught as tailoring and as other branches of art are taught ; 
but it is hard to find young ladies who are willing to accjuire the art. Shame be it on the well- 
educated young ladies of this country for their indifference, when it is so easy for the bright, 
smart and enterprising to be so independent 

Very truly yours, 

Mme. Vietch-Simonds. 



System of Draping entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by Mme. 
Veitch-Simonds, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 

Persons infringing or copying in any manner the principles given in this system or appli- 
ances will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. 

A liberal reward will be paid for any information which will lead to the conviction of 
persons so infringing. 

This magazine will reach a large number of readers of the better class. A limited 
number of advertisements will be received. For price of advertisements call on or address, 

MME. VEITCH-SIMONDS, 
MILWAUKEE SCHOOL OF DRESSMAKING, 

467 MILWAUKEE STREET. 
Circulars mailed free upon application. Liberal terms to agents. 



JfD 



-47 
























-^W^^ 
*--.,• 



k-?- 



v^ 



.^^ 
























.v^' 






, -^o 






o 






-^ ■ • • » ^0 

-.-^ C ' » ^ <S> 

O .1* 



.0^ 



■^^° A^ -^^ 



.^^ 












7 /"\ "f^- ^ 












4 o>^ 






■^-^ 



---^ 



-o . . • A 



';?• 






A-' 



V' ■■ ' • * 



^0 



•>^-^<^ 



^--0^ 












o 
\> . > • • 



-ov^^ 



..-^^ 



>^ 



^> 



- o "^ o ^ <y 






.<>^ 



^^ 



^ 



<■ 












<'. 



5: 



A 



/•v. 









,0^ 



>'5'- 






ax^ 



S •J' 



■ <^0^ \ '">' 
'^ o"" •'■'** 'b A*' o <■ • ^ » "'*. o"^ .■•'*.. O A*^ <• ° "'' - "^^ o^ .■•'•. o 



O 



^^0^ 

,-i°.. 









^ -'A "H./ .•:^'-.. \/ --i-^fe %.** ••»• %/ --'A. %/ . 



.<^' :]^^: \,^ /:'' ^^ ' %,^ :'^"^"\ "\/ :^&'^ %,^ / '^ ' ^Z / ' 

/ ^^^ ^^^ "^"^ "• "^z '"'^"'n %.^ =afe^ x/ ^>^--^" %/■ ^^' 





V 



<*. '»-°' aO 
cv, ,0 . ' • ° 















A'^^ 






^"-n 



'^; 



.^^ 






^> 



^^ -1 



.-^'^ - 



'^^ -% 






- K' 



<""= « ^<t 






.^ 






/s 



'^^ 



" ° « ^^ • . " • ^ O 



a\ 



.•v>- ,/,A, 



^> 









,v 









^o 



0^ V ' 



o . » ' -^ 















-; ..^-b^n 






•^-s 



.^^ 






>P'^^, 



;■> °i. 



v./ 



.O" 



% 






o V 



^°-^* 



s • • 






,0^ , ' • »- 



0' 



-N^ 



S '-'j. 

^s ^ 









-^^ 



.^ 













V 



^^ 
















.^ -^^ 



\5^ '■>•'" A < 









• *^ 



.^#^,- <^/'\^V^%:• 



f. A . -^ -^ 












^^ 



^^■ 



-'iij-^: 




IS BROS. 'J 



V BIN) 



JGUSTINE 
15^ FLA. 



-^^ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




